Model Rocketry is a fun and safe family activity.
model rocketry is a science your results may vary depending on how you build the rocket. please read the National Association of Rocketry model rocketry safety code and the model rocket handbook.
My Instructions are meant as a guide and are not a guarantee of stability or function of the product.
This rocket has been tested and proven but your results may be different.
depending on your skills.
Launching rockets can be dangerous and requires adult supervision. you use our products at your own risk. OLLIE-OOP Model Rocketry is not responsible for any damages or injuries incurred from use or misuse of our products. you are responsible for the Contruction and stability of your rocket. please follow all safety codes and launch procedures as stated by the NAR handbook.
our kits are not intended to be modified. Please use the recommended engines.
Always follow the NAR safety code at www.nar.com
Read all steps before beginning. Always dry fit the parts on every step that requires glue. And always add a reinforcing bead of glue to all joints the required glue and wipe off excess glue with your finger. Unless stated otherwise.
Always wear safety glasses and mask when cutting with a knife, saw, drill, rotary tool or when sanding or using powder.
A very special thanks to Ken Foss and his Wife Camillie.
Please see the blog I wrote about them.
NOTE: If you are using rail buttons make sure to install the FWD button before you install the mount.
You can use epoxy in place of wood glue but wood glue will work just fine. If you are using a much larger motor you need to use epoxy to construct the rocket.
Sand fins and rings to remove any charred wood from the laser. Round the leading edges.
Slide the notched ring on the motor tube and into the body tube, keep the ring flush with the end of tube. Make sure that it can't move, use tape if needed.
NOTE: I've included a marking guide also if you chose to use it.
Make 2 marks on the surface of the tube matching each of the notch locations on the ring. Extend the marks with a straight edge to 6 7/8"
At 3/8" from the AFT end of the tube make a mark on each set of fin lines. Extend 1 set of lines
the whole length of the tube. One rear fin will line up with one of the canard fins.
When finished you should have a long thin rectangle that stops 3/8" before the end of the tube.
Make another mark between 2 of the fins and extend it the whole length of the tube. This is the lug or button line.
Locate the marking guide and stand the tube on its FWD end on the guide, line up the top fin line on the guide in the center of the set of lines that you extended from the dorsal fin. Hold it in place, don't let it move and mark the 3 canard fin locations. Extend those 3 lines 7" Make a mark at 7" and another mark at 5.5" on each line.
Carefully hold a canard fin straddling the line between the 7" and 5.5" marks. Slowly trace around it, repeat on the other 2 fins. Make sure to only mark/trace the fin tabs and not the entire root edge.
Sight everything and make sure the canards are going to sit in the proper locations and begin to cut out the slots. Careful not to make them too big, long or wide. Cut on the inside of your lines. A little smaller slot will hold the fin better.
Make sure to dry/test fit the rings and mount in the body tube with the fins before gluing anything. Use tape around the motor tube to hold rings in place.
If you are using rail buttons consider installing them now.
Make several marks on the motor tube going all the way around at 3/8" from an end. Do this on
all ring locations. It will help keep the tape and rings straight.
Make the same series of marks on the tube at 3.5"
Glue one of the rings that has a small hole in it at the end of the motor tube that has NO marks.
(Be careful not to get any glue on the underside of the ring, the fin tabs must sit flush here. So, no fillets here on this side of the ring, the same with the other rings. You can add glue to these locations later. Let dry.
TIP: Put down wax paper on flat surface place thin line of glue at end of motor tube that's opposite end of the 3/8" mark. Stand motor tube in ring wipe off excess glue, let dry while standing.
Slide notched ring to the 3.5 mark in the center. Place masking tape along that mark so the ring can rest on it. Mark a line around the tube on the other side of the ring. Then put masking tape there also, so that the ring cannot slide along the tube. This will hold the ring in place while you dry fit the mount and fins.
Use a hobby knife with a new blade to begin slowly cutting out the fin slots. Score the long length of each line lightly and slowly. I found that scoring 1 line and then the other and kept going back and forth between the lines until I cut through worked well. Then carefully cut the small horizontal sections.
Dry fit the motor mount in the tube. Match the slots with the notches in the rings. Dry fit each fin. The tab should go all the way in so that the root cord of the fin is completely flush with the body tube. The FWD ring should not be visible through the slot. It should be just above it. Sand the root edge of the fin tabs if needed.
If everything fits, remove the mount and tape, but only the tape on the side that lets you remove the notched ring and remove the notched ring. Place very thin line of glue around tube at the center mark/edge of tape and slide back on the notched ring up to the tape. Wipe off all excess glue let it dry enough that it won't move when you push it back in the tube.
Tie the yellow cord to the mount tube between the 2 rings and thread the other end through the hole in the FWD ring. Put a drop of white glue on the knot.
When you install the mount first run the cord through it and out the AFT end. That keeps it out of the way and helps to not get glue on it.
Use a long stick place a line of glue around the inside of the body tube just above the FWD end of the notches right where the FWD ring will sit. A dowel with a popsicle stick taped to it works well.
You must do this next step before that glue dries.
Slide in the motor mount so that its flush with the end of the body tube. Standing body tube on end and pushing the last inch of mount tube in on a flat surface helps. Don't push hard.
Insert all fins in the slots.
Remove a fin and put a line of glue along the root edge and in the notch.. Put it back in the slot and check the alignment, make sure its straight out of the tube at a 90 degree angle. Repeat with the other 3 fins. Check alignment often until glue sets.
Stand tube on end and use a stick to add reinforcing glue or epoxy to the joints inside the AFT end of the tube. I just dripped glue inside and smeared it around with a popsicle stick.
Put a line of glue on the ends of the fins inside the tube and around the tube where the last ring will sit. Install the last ring. Push it up against the fins as far as it will go.
Locate threaded part of the motor retainer. Sand the inside so its not smooth. Place a some epoxy on the end portion of motor tube and attach the threads. Push it all the way on. Turn it a half turn or so.
You can drip glue down the FWD end of the tube on to the FWD ring and use a long dowel to spread it but if you applied the glue correct the first time this step may not be needed. Don't get glue inside the motor mount.
If you are using lugs sand them and the area on the tube to remove the shine. Glue one next to a rear fin flush with the end of the tube and the other one next to the FWD canard fin. Make sure the are perfectly straight aligned with each other.
If you are using buttons install one on the line in the recess motor mount area and the other button at 7.5"or 8"
The rocket will require some nose weight depending on your motor selection.