Model Rocketry is a fun and safe family activity.
model rocketry is a science your results may vary depending on how you build the rocket. please read the National Association of Rocketry model rocketry safety code and the model rocket handbook.
My Instructions are meant as a guide and are not a guarantee of stability or function of the product.
This rocket has been tested and proven but your results may be different.
Launching rockets can be dangerous and requires adult supervision. you use our products at your own risk. OLLIE-OOP Model Rocketry is not responsible for any damages or injuries incurred from use or misuse of our products. you are responsible for the Contruction and stability of your rocket. please follow all safety codes and launch procedures as stated by the NAR handbook.
our kits are not intended to be modified. Please use the recommended engines.
Always follow the NAR safety code at www.nar.com
Read all steps before beginning. Always dry fit the parts on every step that requires glue. And always add a reinforcing bead of glue to all joints the required glue and wipe off excess glue with your finger.
Always wear safety glasses and mask when cutting or sanding or using powder.
CG Location 5.25" from AFT end
BT-60
20" LENGHTH
24MM C11, D12
LASER CUT FINS
PLYWOOD RINGS
PEEL& STICK DECALS
BRAIDED AND ELASTIC SHOCK CORDS
ENDLESS STREAMERS, SERIOUSLY THERES A BUNCH!
Read all instructions before beginning.
Always dry fit any parts that require glue. Always ad a reinforcing line of glue to any part that required gluing.
1.
Locate motor mount parts
motor tube, rings, braided cord and motor hook.
Make a mark 1/4" from the end of the motor tube and a mark from the other end at 1."
Using a hobby knife make a 1/8" slit at the 1/4" mark.
Test fit the rings on the tube with motor hook in the 1/8" slit, if the parts don't fit together easily, lightly sand the inside of the ring until everything fits.
Jr. mount instructions.
Jr. has 2 motor block rings use both. Make them flush with end of tube. Stand tube on end and push rings together with a toothpick. Let dry. Make sure the hole in the rings remains open and clear of glue.
Run the braided cord through the hook gap on the FWD ring and tie the end around the center of the motor tube.
Slide the rings away from the marks and place a ring of glue around the tube just before the marks, so that when you slide the ring up to the marks the rings go through the glue.
Put a bead of glue inside the FWD end of the tube, the end with the slit and insert the small motor block ring until it stops on the motor hook. If your kit has more than 1 of these rings then glue them all in stacked together.
Set the motor assembly aside and let dry fully.
When finished it should look like the one in the picture.
If you want to reinforce the hook. You can wrap a small pc of tape around the center or glue a strip of paper around it.
Add reinforcing glue to both sides of ring and wipe with finger. Put a drop of that glue from your finger on the knot on the braided cord.
2.
Stand body tube on end over the tube marking guide, make sure its even with the circle on the guide. and make marks at each line. Using a door frame extend 3 of the lines to 3" and one line to 5 1/4" that will be the lug line also.
Choose your own hook location.
Sand fins and lightly round the leading edges slightly. Sand the tiny hat bells also. You can choose to leave the edges square.
First run the cord through the motor tube and test fit the motor mount.
slide the mount out and run the cord through the motor tube so its out of the way to install the motor mount.
Put a line of glue around the inside of the body tube at 2" in.
When you insert the mount do not stop until the motor tube is even with the end of the body tube.
Set aside and let dry. Then run the cord back through both tubes and out the top of the body tube.
After its dry add a bead of glue around the last motor mount ring. You can use a glue bottle
applicator or a scrap stick.
3.
Put a line of glue on the root edge of a fin and spread it with your finger. Put the fin on one of the fin lines flush with the end of the tube, make sure it is straight. check alignment and let dry. Repeat the same process with the other 3 fins. Check alignment, then glue on each hat bell at the top of each fin.
Check alignment, the fins should be directly across from each other, just like the lines on the marking guide.
Add reinforcing glue to each fin joint. wipe excess glue with your finger. Let dry.
4.
JESTER Jr. LUG. Glue 1 launch lug against one fin flush with the end of the tube. The other lug should go on 2.5" above the bottom one.
It is not necessary to use a streamer in the Jr. It's your choice.
JESTER LUG. Glue 1 launch lug against one of the fins flush with the end of the tube and the other at the 5.25" mark. Keep them aligned with each other, use a launch rod to help keep them aligned.
JESTER Jr. Nose cone Use plastic cement to attach the bottom of the nose cone.
Yep! I initially forgot the lugs. Ollie oops
5.
Tie the shock cord to the Kevlar cord using a square knot. Tie any streamers of your choice to the cord. 2 or 3 is enough but you can use more.
Tie the end of the shock cord to the eye on the nose cone base.
No nose weight is required.
6.
The decals can be picked up with a tiny dental pick or the clear transfer paper. Its similar to masking tape and reusable. Make sure surface is smooth and clean, don't touch the sticky side with your fingers.
Go to town! Thers extras included.
Wash cones with soap and water. Use plastic cement on Jr nose cone base. Neither kit requires nose weight.
Paints I used
Krylon Fusion gloss sunbeam gloss
Krylon Fusion Patriotic Ble gloss
Krylon Fusion Jungle Green gloss
Rust oleum Grape gloss
Rust oleum Sunrise Red gloss
A gold paint marker for highlights.
The new version I'm building will be a close match of the same colors but glowing or UV reactive neon type. The one in the pictures is currently in my neighbor's tree.