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Lance Instructions

Updated: Apr 22


Model Rocketry is a fun and safe family activity.

model rocketry is a science your results may vary depending on how you build the rocket. please read the National Association of Rocketry model rocketry safety code and the model rocket handbook.

My Instructions are meant as a guide and are not a guarantee of stability or function of the product.

This rocket has been tested and proven but your results may be different.

Launching rockets can be dangerous and requires adult supervision. you use our products at your own risk. OLLIE-OOP Model Rocketry is not responsible for any damages or injuries incurred from use or misuse of our products. you are responsible for the Contruction and stability of your rocket. please follow all safety codes and launch procedures as stated by the NAR handbook.

our kits are not intended to be modified. Please use the recommended engines.

Always follow the NAR safety code at www.nar.com

Read all steps before beginning. Always dry fit the parts on every step that requires glue. And always add a reinforcing bead of glue to all joints the required glue and wipe off excess glue with your finger.

Always wear safety glasses and mask when cutting or sanding or using powder.



Parts list

motor tube, 3 rings, hook

plastic parachute 18"

shock cord

Nose cone

launch lug

Shield fins 4

Canards 4

Body tube

vinyl decals peel and stick

mystery part - 3 mystery pcs of balsa


Motors B6-4 first flight C6-5 flies up to 550 feet


23" Length 1.33" Dia.


Read all steps before beginning. Always dry fit the parts on every step that requires glue. And always add a reinforcing bead of glue to all joints the required glue and wipe off excess glue with your finger.



Lance Instructions
.pdf
Download PDF • 2.49MB



1:

Locate the motor mount parts. Make a small cut big enough for the motor hook 1/8" on the motor tube at 1/4" from the end. Make a mark from the other end of the tube at 1" then turn the tube 180 degrees and make another mark at 1". Put the hook in the cut and slide both rings onto the tube. Making sure the gap in the ring goes over the hook, keep both rings at the ends of the tube.

Put a ring of glue around the tube just before the two 1" marks and a dab of glue on the cut, then put the small end of the hook in the cut and slide the rings up to the lines passing them through the ring of glue. make sure they are straight. Put a ring of glue around the inside of the tube on the FWD end and insert the engine block ring until it stops at the hook. Put a strip of masking tape around the center of the tube, or you can glue a strip of cardstock around it a couple of wraps to secure the hook. Set aside, let dry.






2

Take out the fins and sand them, keep them together and sand all the edges evenly, then round all the edges except for the root edge.

Cut out the fin marking guide and wrap it around the body tube and tape it. Make pencil marks at each line on both sides.

Using a straight edge, door frame and extend all 4 fin lines the entire length of the tube. mark the lug line and hook line. Extend the launch lug line to 10" and make a mark on the lug line at 9 3/4"

make mark at 2 7/8" from the AFT end of the tube on each of the fin lines.
If you prefer to use the vinyl decals, skip this next step.

This kit comes with multiple options. The card stock fin skins should be glued on using white glue. Use your finger to smear glue and cover the paper completely. 
Position it on the fin and do the same with the other side of the fin and place it on parchment paper or wax paper on a flat surface. Put a heavy book on it until dry. 

The vinyl decals will be placed on fins after you have painted them




3: Installing motor mount.

Put a ring of glue around the inside of the body tube at 1 1/2" in the AFT end.

Slide the motor mount in and don't stop until the motor tube is flush with the body tube. Let dry then add a line of glue around the AFT ring at the joint where it meets the body tube. Let dry.

(See picture)



Example pictures from a different build.





4:

Put glue on the root edge of one of the shield fins, stop at the area of the fin where the root edge starts to turn away from the tube.

Place the fin on one of the fin lines with the FWD end/tip of the fin at the 2 7/8" mark.

keep the fin straight and on the line, check alignment until glue dries firmly. Let dry.

TIP: With an ink pen or marker on the very end of the body tube extending your fin line so you can see the position while the fin is being mounted.

(See picture)




Repeat the same process with the other 3 fins.

Glue on each canard fin the same way. Each canard tip should be flush with the FWD end of the tube.

(See pictures)


Picture showing position of canards.




5

Cut out the shock cord mount and smear glue on it with your finger covering it.

lay one end across it and fold one section at a time, add a dot or 2 of glue each time you fold. Then form it into the shape of the body tube. after the shape has set a little, place a few drops of glue inside the FWD end of the body tube at 1 1/2" in and put the cord mount there and hold it until it sets firmly.

TIP: You can use a rubber band and strap the cord mount around the base of the nose cone to form it, do not let it dry fully.
Wash the nose cone with hot soapy water.
See parachute instructions. once the parachute is assembled, tie all lines to the eye on the base of the nose cone, and tie the loose end of the shock cord to the same eye as the cone.

(See pictures)




NOTE: Yes, I have the cord mount on the paper backwards, but it still works. ;)






For complete parachute instructions see the blog Parachute Instructions.



painting and finishing a model kit is your choice. On my build, I used regular Brown, metallic Chrome, and glacier gray, to show you more than one option. The instructions for wrapping the decals on the handle are the same as the instructions on the Knight kit and i used some of the knight pictures here.

There are a few different ways to apply the decals to the fins. A toothpick will help with the tiny dots.

You can choose to weave the strips one the handle like I did or simply wrap them horizontally.

You can cut all of the dots out of the center and use a piece of transfer tape to transfer the entire shield outline at once or you can choose to cut it into sections and apply it in sections. You can also use the transfer tape to apply the dots. The transfer tape is reusable.

Tip.

The vinyl decals require a smooth clean surface to adhere correctly. You will have to use the edge of a credit card or your fingernail to carefully rub them down on to the fin before you remove the transfer tape. If you make a mistake, you should be able to remove and reposition the decals as long as your surface was clean, they should still remain very sticky.

I stress you can never rub them down too much. Make sure your hands are clean. Any residue or oils from your skin will severely degrade the adhesive on the decals.

I recommend that you watch a few YouTube videos on applying vinyl decals.

I can always provide replacements at cost.


Clear coat the rocket after applying decals.
















A clean metal needle or something similar works best.


















THE TRANSFER PAPER IS ABOUT AS STICKY AS MASKING TAPE IT IS USED TO PULL THE DECAL OFF THE PAPER SO YOU CAN PLACE THEM.

CUT THE PAPER TO FIT THE LETTERS LANCE, LAY THE TRANSFER PAPER ON THEM AND RUB DOWN JUST ENOUGH UNTIL THE DECALS STICK TO THE TRANSFER PAPER, THEN PEEL THE PAPER UP WITH THE LETTERS ATTACHED.


CENTER THEM ON THE TUBE AND LAY IT ALL DOWN. NOW EASY PRESS EACH LETTER WITH YOUR FINGERNAIL, TRY NOT TO PRESS TOO MUCH ON THE TRANSFER PAPER THAT TOUCHES THE ROCKET, BUT YOU DO WANT TO PRESS THE DECALS DOWN AS HARD AS YOU CAN WITHOUT DAMAGE TO THE TUBE.

SLOWLY PULL BACK THE TRANSFER PAPER AT A 90 DEGREE ANGEL, IF THE DECALS DONT STICK TO THE ROCKET, STOP AND REPEAT RUBBING THEM DOWN UNTIL THEY STICK. THEN SLOWLY REMOVE THE TRANSFER TAPE.





LOCATE THE LONG BLACK STRIPS AND PULL BACK ONE END A LITTLE AND FOLD UNDER THE BACKING. BE CAREFULL NOT TO CREASE THE OTHER STRIPS, YOU CAN CUT THEM ALL APART IF ITS EASIER.

1 STRIP IS ENOUGHT TO TWIST ALL THE WAY DOWN THE HANDLE.

START AT THE END OF ONE OF THE CANARDS AND SPIRAL IT DOWN THE HANDLE. IT SHOULD END ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE ROCKET WHERE YOU STARTED. TRY TO KEEP ALL SEEMS ON ONE SIDE.

YOU CAN PRACTICE WITHTHE STRIP BEFORE PEELING IT BACK.

YOU CAN PRACTICE THIS BY SPIRALING THE DECAL WITHOUT PELLING OFF THE BACKING.


JUST KEEP EYEING IT AND TRY TO KEEP ALL THE SPACING EQUAL, IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE, YOU CAN PULL IT BACK UP AND REPLACE IT AS LONG AS ITS NOT GOING TO PULL UP THE PAINT. TRY NOT TO TOUCH THE STICKY SIDE AT ALL.

NOW REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS STARTING AT THE TOP BY THE SEEM OF THE LAST STRIP. START A NEW STRIP TO SPIRAL THE OPISITE DIRECTION.
























Chute instructions can be found in the blog section.


Always follow the NAR safety code

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