Solar Warrior Instructions
Updated: Aug 16
Read all steps before beginning. Always dry fit the parts on every step that requires glue. And always add a reinforcing bead of glue to all joints the required glue and wipe off excess glue with your finger.
Always wear safety glasses and mask when cutting or sanding or using powder.
1)
Locate motor mount parts and dry fit the rings, sand them if necessary.
Make a mark at 1" from either end of the motor tube and another mark from the same end at 2 1/4"
Make a 3rd mark at 1/4" from the other end of the tube.
TIP:) It helps align the rings to make several marks around the tube at each ring location.
Use a knife, cut a 1/8" slit on the 2 1/4" mark. This is for the hook tab.
Put the metal hook tab in the slit. the hook should lay over the 1" mark.
Slide on the rings up to the marks but not on them. Place a line of glue around the tube at each mark and then slide one ring on to the 1" mark and the other on the 1/4" mark. Make sure they are straight and not lopsided.
Locate the paper ring. Use a stick to place glue inside the tube just above the hook tab and slide the paper ring in until it touches the hook tab.
Use a motor case to push the ring but remove it quickly.
2)
Locate the yellow cord and push one end through the slot in the FWR ring and then tie it around the tube using a square knot or any knot.
(See picture)
Use a strip of tape or glue a strip of paper a couple of wraps around the tube and over the hook. This acts as a hook retainer.
You can put the short end of the cord inside the wrap.
(see picture)
Add a reinforcing line of glue around each joint the required glue. Let dry.
3)
Cut out the marking guide and wrap it around the AFT end of the tube and tape it in place. Make a mark on the tube at each line on the guide.
Use a door frame or straight edge to extend a 13" line from the AFT end of the tube on each of the 4 marks. Make a cross mark on all 4 lines at 10" from the AFT end.
Choose a location between any 2 lines and draw a tiny H to mark the motor hook location. On the other side of the tube from the H mark, mark a 5th line between 2 of the fin, lines at 8" long from AFT end for the launch lug line. On that line make a cross mark at 6"
4)
Take out the fins and lightly sand both sides and edges but do not round the edges. DO NOT sand the fin jig.
You can use 220, 400, 600, 800 grits of paper. Any will work fine.
When possible, hold each of matching fins together when sanding the edges. Sand them all evenly.
5)
Locate the 2 different size fin parts with rounded ends.
Glue them together as seen in the pictures. Make sure to not get glue in the slot.
6)
Locate the large fins and the smaller triangle fins. Glue them as seen in the pictures. Use wax paper on a flat surface, use a straight edge to keep them even.
Note the side of the large fin that the triangle attaches to, make sure they all match.
Once dry put glue across the top of the fin and tab, then place the platform on. Use the included fin jig to keep them straight until the glue sets. Repeat on the other 3.
(See pictures)
(TIP)
If you want to fill the wood grain do that now. It's not necessary to fill grain but if you want a smooth finish its best to fill the grain with something along with the primer that you will use later.
I use Elmers wood filler mixed with water, so it's about half as thick and a little runny, make sure to do both sides of the fins at the same time or they will warp. You can also apply it with a paint brush. Once dry sand them all smooth and even just as before.
or you can use Minwax or any brand of Sanding sealer, follow directions on the product.
It helps to dry fit the parts before filling them.
Fin Skins
If you have paper skins use spray glue or any white glue, cover both sides of fin at the same time.
There is also a CA method. I recommend watching some YouTube videos . Its far easier to learn by watching.
8)
Place a line of glue along the root edge of 1 large fin, smooth the glue with your finger.
Place it on 1 of the fin lines even with the end of the tube. Eye it from front and back to check alignment. Hold until it sets. Once dry repeat on the other 3 fins.
9)
Locate the remaining FWD fins. Place glue along the root edge and glue each one on the tube at/above the 10" marks on each line. (The rear of the fin at the mark.)
They should line up with the rear fins, keep checking the alignment as you go.
9-B)
Lightly sand launch lug and glue it on the LL line at/above the 6" mark.
10)
Locate the motor mount and plastic tail.
Feed the cord through the mount so that the cord is coming out the AFT end. This keeps it from getting glue on it.
Use a stick to apply a ring of a good amount of glue about 2" in the AFT end of the body tube.
*Make sure to match the hook and hook mark on the tube.
Insert the mount in the body tube and use the plastic tail to set the mount in place, then quickly remove the tail. The motor tube should be extending by 3/4"
Add a line of glue around the AFT centering ring and tube joint and wipe off excess glue, make sure the plastic tail will still fit. If you get too much glue and the tail fit, sand it down until it fits.
(See pictures)
11)
Cut the nose cone at the locations seen in picture. Make several slow cuts with a knife or use a razor saw. Always wear safety glasses when using a knife.
12)
Tie the black or white elastic cord to the yellow braided cord and feed them back through the tube until they are out the FWD end. Tie the end to the eye in the swivel and hook the swivel to the eyelet on the nose cone.
13)
Use CA (super glue) to attach the plastic tail.
14)
After constructing the parachute, tie all the ends of the lines to the eye in the swivel.
For 12" chutes
Cut 4 shroud lines each 24 inches long.
For 15 " chutes
Cut 4 lines each at 30" long
For 18" chutes
Cut 4 lines at 36" long
Lay Parachute out and place a sticky disk at each corner. Cut a tiny x in the center of each and tie the ends of the shroud lines to each hole.
make sure there's no tangles.